Backpacker: South America

By Andrew Mickel

South America, if you hadn’t noticed, is rather large. This week’s Backpacker takes in just a thin strip of this diverse continent, from Southern Brazil, to Argentina and to Chile.

Rio de Janeiro is a great place to start exploring South America. Be sure to take in all of Brazil’s stereotypes, including the beautiful people down on Ipanema and Copacobana beaches, to walking tours of the favelas. If you want to see the city in full carnival spirit in February, book hostels in advance; although the north is where the real carnival action happens, in Salvador.

But even if you only have a few hours in Rio you can still take in the best views of the city from Sugar Loaf Mountain and Christ the Redeemer. Get around both by haggling for a taxi tour at either site, as it’s much cheaper than trying to do your own thing.

Further inland, the Pantanal wetlands proudly boast a higher diversity of flora and fauna than the Amazon. From the anteaters to the toucans and from the millions of caiman (think miniature alligators) to the howler monkeys, the place literally crawls with nature. Take the chance to go horse riding, canoeing, piranha fishing as well as swimming with our flesh-hungry friends, before getting the best night’s sleep you will probably ever experience in the hammocks they provide. As it’s in the middle of nowhere, you are best off Googling the Pantanal to find the most suitable plan for you; but at about ¬£70 for several days, it is completely unmissable.

Iguazu Falls marks the border between Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. Take a trip to Paraguay from Brazilian Foz de Iguazu to top up the passport and get cheap electronics, and get up close with the friendly toucans and hummingbirds at the local bird park.

The real star attractions are the waterfalls. There are 275 in all, and anyone who has been to both Foz and Niagara Falls attests to the fact they leave their northern neighbours in the shade. The Brazilian side is great for the long-distance views, and if you can afford to splash out then take a helicopter ride over them (¬£40). But the best way to see them is to cross the border into Argentina and get up close and wet in the Devil’s Mouth (¬£20 for a zodiac boat tour).

Whilst in Argentina, head to either Buenos Aires or Salta. Forget Brazil; the real beautiful people of the continent are here, and they know how to party. Bars and clubs don’t open til late, but go on all night. By day, Salta is a great base to head off white water rafting, and a fantastic site to go paragliding from.

Be sure to use the Backpackers Hostel (¬£4 a night), a great place to meet others at their barbeques, before heading to local legendary bar Barneys. With the fantastic local wine less than 70p a litre, don’t expect to escape Argentina sobre.

The central town of San Pedro de Atacama is geared towards the tourist trade so you can pick a tour into the desert that suits you. If you have plenty of money left then head up to the geysers and hot springs.

Any visit, though, has to take in Death Valley and the Valley of the Moon, with jagged rocks and deathly drops spectacular enough to live up to their names.

One place that isn’t mentioned in the guidebooks but was shared by a local in exchange for some voice recordings – after heading north of the town to take in the old Inca fortresses, head behind the mountain to find figures and arches carved out of the mountainside, guarding some sort of cave systems. Be sure to leave plenty of time to head down to Santiago as Chile is deceptively long (about a 36 hour bus ride). As a very Western city, it’s pricey but a good way to start easing your way back into home life. Book in at Hostal Forestal which is both cheap and nicer than most hotels I’ve ever stayed in, before taking in the continent’s best shopping.