The gair rhydd magazine, published by the students of Cardiff University

Moscow

‘a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma’

By George Tsangaris

Russia is a super-state stretching from the borders of the European Union, past the Ural Mountains, deep into Siberia, bypassing Mongolia and China and reaching the tips of Japan’s islands, almost touching Canada.

Russia is enormous, but one city in particular captures this land perfectly: Moscow. A city so romantic and ruthless, it captivates the imagination with its haunting history and its modern-day madness.

Moscow regained its capital status by chance when Lenin, fearing invasion, moved the government from St Petersburg. Since its re-creation as capital, Moscow witnessed the rise and fall of the communist regime with its development as a literary and cultural capital, the hosting of the 1980 Olympics and now the rapid growth of its economy. Moscow is so busy with change. It hasn’t had time to look back, nor does it want to.

Gone are the days of red-raw communism and perestroika. It isn’t the land of drunken politicians and food rations but is, in contrast, a land of chic-styled youths, with Moscow boasting more billionaires than New York… and they say the Russians lost the Cold War. There are even plans to build a millionaires’ city on a bend on the Moscow River, twice the size of Monaco and able to house over 30,000 people.

Moscow is the most expensive city in the world after Tokyo with prices constantly varying. For the average Muscovite, a taxi ride from the airport will cost around $15-20, whereas the tourist will pay up to $60. To avoid this charge you could take the shuttle to the closest metro station for $0.50.

The Moscow metro itself is a landmark. Some lines were purposely constructed deep underground in order to provide protection from a nuclear attack during the Cold War. That aside, the metro is more like a museum than a mode of transport with chandeliers, ornate paintings on the ceiling, arches, marble-clad walls, mosaics, statues and wall-sculptures. Apart from the underground, nine million Muscovites use the bus. You can buy a book of 10 tickets for 35 roubles.

Moscow has the most extreme and diverse nightlife; from underground clubs to penthouse wine bars.

Moscow has more casinos than the whole of Europe combined. If you’re into the arts then you should visit the Bolshoi Theatre. And of course there’s vodka… vodka… vodka.

There are even more things to see during the day. The Red Square is probably everyone’s principal visit. The Kremlin is the residence and seat of the central Russian government. Within the walls you’ll find three Cathedrals and countless towers.

At the Red Square, you can see the Tomb of Lenin. His body lies perfectly preserved in a open-casket. Between 1924 and 1972 over 73 million people visited Lenin’s Tomb. If you wish to see him too, then catch him between Monday and Friday 9am-1pm.

Moscow’s Seven Sisters were built on the orders of Stalin and is one of the most drastic architectural projects ever conducted in order to rival the USA’s skyscrapers. Unlike phallic American skyscrapers, the Seven Sisters were designed in a ‘wedding cake’ style, with the main tower as the centre. They can be seen across the Moscow skyline and include the Moscow State University, (once Europe’s tallest building), ministries and grand hotels.

The main shopping street, The Arbat, once a suburb of Moscow was the focus of Russian intelligentsia and artistic community, with legendary poet Pushkin living at Number 53 and Tolstoy living on the adjoining street of Kaloshin Lane.

Nowadays, The Arbat plays host to souvenir shops, art stalls and cafes while still retaining its bohemian atmosphere.

Churchill’s description of Russia, a ‘riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma’ is undoubtedly true. But this depiction fiercely becomes reality in the palaces and bars, museums and people, streets and avenues that make up the city of Moscow.

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